Multipitch Climbing Course At Organised Bolted Climbing Sectors

The sport-climbing multipitch course concerns sport climbing on organized bolted rocks at climbing sectors on the island.

Aim of the course:

The aim of the course is the improvement of the technical setup and lead climbing, but also the first contact and the gain of knowledge and experience so that the participants can safely climb multipitch routes at organized sectors with bolted routes.

Duration: 6 days + 1 day exam

Participants:

anybody who has successfully passed the Beginner’s climbing course test and can lead climb 5c difficulty routes.

Introduction tests: (1st day of the course)

• Lead climbing a sport climbing route with at least 5c difficulty.
• The examiner will evaluate whether the participant has the ability to handle and use the multipitch environment.
• The examiner will ask the participant to execute some basic techniques learned in the Beginner’s course, such as abseiling, passing the rope through a locked carabiner etc., in order to evaluate the participant.
• The general aim is for the participant to know that he must always be secured at the rocks, using the basic safety principles.

Curriculum

Theory:

1. Introduction to the basic equipment

• • • Tuber in auto-lock position. (ATC-guide, Reverso, Smart, etc.)
    • Belay plate.
    • Pulleys, ladders.
    • Slings. Expanding the knowledge of the materials and their differences.
    • Single, double and twin ropes. Differences in practice and when we use them for multipitch climbing. Expanding the knowledge of their characteristics.
    • Brakes with cords (friction hitches) and mechanical brakes.
    • In depth analysis of the Tether. (types, strength, use, etc.)

2. Knots, uses and relevance to carabiners.

• • • Figure 8 follow-through knot to tie-in.
    • Figure 8 on bight.
    • Ring-bend to tie-in.
    • Ring-bend (tape knot), for tying a sling! (analysis of the type, dangers etc.)
    • Stopper-knot.
    • Clove hitch, with one or two hands.
    • Munter hitch, with one or two hands.
    • Mule knot (blocking knot).
    • Girth hitch.
    • Fisherman’s knot (single, double, triple).
    • Friction hitches – French Marchard double direction, prusik, Marchard single direction/klemheist.
    • Stopper knot, flat overhand and overhand on a bight.
    • Two loop figure 8 or bunny ears.
    • Butterfly.
    • Bowline, double bowline.
    • Knots to connect two ropes:
      • Flat overhand.
      • Fisherman’s knot.
      • Guide’s knot.
      • Reverse threaded figure 8.
      • Connecting two different materials (rope and sling) or ropes >3mm.
      • Further analysis of each way.

3. Introduction to theory and the differences to single pitch climbing.

• • • Difference in the belayer’s position while on the route.
      • Hanging anchor
      • Anchor on a ledge.
    • Difference in the forces that may develop while climbing.
      • Fall factor 2 and in depth analysis.
      • Avoiding factor 2 falls.
      • Correct position of the belayer at the anchor.
    • The rope during climbing, how to collect and manage it to avoid problems.
      • Problems that may arise with the rope.
    • Being tethered the whole time while on the route.
    • Redundancy while climbing multipitch routes.

4. Choosing a multipitch route, understanding the dangers and preparation.

• • • Things to consider before we start climbing a multipitch route:
      • Difficulty.
      • Number of pitches and length of the route.
      • Time needed to climb the route.
      • Food and water.
      • Weather conditions and what the environment demands from the climbers.
      • Can we retreat from the route? If so, where? If not, what changes?
      • The materials we need to take with us.
    • Is the route finding easy?
    • How do we get down from the route? Do we need anything else? (double ropes?) Are the anchors well organized, providing ease to abseil? If not, what will we need? (cord or maillon-rapide)
    • If something goes wrong, e.g. an injury, do we know what to do? (do we have a telephone, will it have signal, who do we call, can we xplain where we are?)
    • Have we informed anyone about our intentions, how many days it will take and when to inform the authorities if we don’t return?
    • What notes do we need to take along while climbing?

5. Analysis of the various anchors in existence.

• • • Setting up an anchor with:
      • Slings
      • Cords
      • The climbing rope
    • Characteristics of each type and analysis of advantages and disadvantages.

6. Anchors must abide the following:

• • • KISS – KEEP IT STUPID SIMPLE
    • ABC – anchor, belayer, climber, – IN LINE
    • Our anchors must always be redundant and in case a piece of gear fails the rest must not be shock-loaded.
    • Even distribution of weight.
    • Must have a central point from which all following actions are taken.
    • The climbing partners must be in continuous verbal and optical contact (position of the anchor relative to the previous anchor). If not possible, what are our choices?
    • The angles the anchor must abide.
    • American triangle and the dangers it hides.
    • ERNEST system: Equalized, Redundant, NO Extension, Solid, Timely.

7. Dynamic belaying in a multipitch environment.

8. Weight relation between the climbing partners and how it affects climbing. Measures which can be taken.

Practice:

1. Correct preparation for and teaching of each type of anchor.

• • • Anchor with slings, demonstration and practice.
    • Anchor with cords, demonstration and practice (5m, 7m, 10m).
    • In depth analysis of the above anchors.
    • Anchor with the climbing rope. Close to the bolts and far from the bolts. Even an anchor in case it has to be set up on two of the route’s bolts (analysis of why this might be necessary to do)
    • Further explanation and comparison of the anchors.
    • Introduction to accidents depending on the type of anchor.

2. Correct self-tethering and belaying from the anchor.

• • • Correct self-tethering at the anchor after climbing a pitch.
    • Tethering with a clove-hitch and tightening.
    • Belaying with a plate and ATC.
    • Analysis.

3. Learning to unlock each type of belay device, locking and non-locking, when belaying the second climber, in auto-lock/brake mode.

4. Locking and unlocking the belay device, with assisted-braking and without, when belaying the leader.

5. Pulley systems to haul the second climber.

• • • 3:1, 5:1, 6:1
    • Setup with simple climbing gear.
    • Setup with specialised gear (rescue).
    • Analysis.

6. Ascending a fixed-rope with two different devices.

• • • Scenario in which this might be necessary on a route.
    • Learning to do it with simple climbing gear and two different devices.
    • Discussion about redundancy in such cases, measures and counter measures.

7. Advanced abseiling techniques.

• • • Executing an abseil with different devices in descender/brake mode.
    • Techniques at the anchor for quick abseiling of the climbers.
    • Executing an abseil and overcoming a knot on the rope. Analysis.

8. Preparing the anchor for abseiling.

• • • At the end of a pitch or the route between the two climbers.
    • Execution of multiple abseils, correct rope handling, analysis of the problems which may arise and how the climbers can solve them.
    • Preparing the anchor for the abseil when our partner cannot complete the climb for any reason.
  • • When the second climber is not hanging in the rope, e.g. on a ledge away from the anchor.
    • When the second climber is hanging in the rope and cannot assist in any way.

9. Helping the second climber to overcome difficult parts of a route.

• • • When we are close and can see each other.
    • When we are further away but can communicate.

10. Climbing of the multipitch routes.

• • Collecting the rope correctly depending on who is leading the next pitch.
  • Quick setup of the anchor, correct position of the belayer depending on the pitch.
  • Quick change and starting the next pitch.
  • Techniques for moving the gear between the climbers.
  • Techniques for quick abseiling and transitioning at the anchors on the way to the ground.

In order to obtain the certificate the student must be tested on the following subjects by an examiner recognized by KOMOAAP:

• • If he/she is comfortable and able to be at a multipitch climbing sector.
  • If he/she knows the correct use of the climbing gear and maintains it correctly.
  • If he/she knows and applies the correct techniques, so that the student and the examiner can move up the route of the examiners choice, with absolute safety.
  • If there is correct communication between the climbing partners.
  • The correct setup of an anchor depending on the situation.
  • Using a pulley system and abseiling.
  • To answer 20 out of 25 given written questions correctly.
  • The examiner will ask to climb a route longer than two pitches, which they must climb and abseil with absolute control and safety.
  • While climbing, the students will be asked to solve problems.